If you've ever looked at the price tag for custom framing, you probably realized pretty quickly that learning how to cut matting for picture frame projects is a total game-changer for your wallet. It's one of those skills that looks incredibly technical from the outside, but once you actually get your hands on a mat cutter, you'll wonder why you ever paid someone else fifty bucks to do it.
Beyond the cost, there's just something satisfying about doing it yourself. You aren't limited to the boring, standard sizes you find at the big-box craft stores. If you have an odd-sized vintage postcard or a panoramic photo that doesn't fit a "standard" window, you can just make your own. Here is the lowdown on how to get those crisp, beveled edges without losing your mind—or too many sheets of expensive mat board.
The Gear You Actually Need
You don't need a massive, professional-grade framing table to get started. Honestly, most of those are overkill unless you're opening a shop. For most of us, a decent handheld mat cutter and a heavy-duty straight edge will do the trick perfectly.
First, grab some mat board. You'll find these in huge sheets at art supply stores. If your artwork is valuable or you want it to last decades without yellowing, make sure you buy "acid-free" or "archival" board. The cheap stuff has lignin in it, which eventually turns the edges of your photo brown.
Next is the mat cutter itself. This is usually a small block that holds a specialized blade at a 45-degree angle. This angle is what creates that classic "beveled" look where you see a tiny sliver of the white core of the board. You'll also need a metal ruler (preferably one with a non-slip rubber backing), a sharp pencil, and a flat surface that you don't mind getting a few nicks on. A self-healing cutting mat is great, but a thick piece of scrap cardboard or a secondary piece of mat board works as a "slip sheet" to protect your table and ensure the blade goes all the way through.
Nailing the Math (Without a Headache)
This is the part where most people get tripped up. Measuring is 90% of the job when figuring out how to cut matting for picture frame setups. If your math is off by even an eighth of an inch, your photo might fall right through the hole or look awkwardly lopsided.
Let's say you have an 8x10 photo and you want to put it in an 11x14 frame. Your mat board needs to be cut to the 11x14 size first (the outside dimensions). Then, you need to calculate the "window" or the hole in the middle.
A common mistake is cutting the window exactly 8x10. If you do that, the photo will just fall through the opening. You want the window to be slightly smaller than the image so it "grabs" the edges. Cutting the window 7.5x9.5 is a standard move—it gives you a quarter-inch of overlap on all sides to tape the photo down securely.
Marking the Back of the Board
One of the most important rules: Always mark and cut from the back of the mat board. This keeps your pencil marks hidden and ensures that if the blade slips or leaves a little "burr," it's on the side no one will ever see.
Lay your mat board face down. Use your ruler to mark your borders. If you're doing an 11x14 mat for an 8x10 photo, and you want the photo centered, you'll have to do some subtraction. 14 minus 9.5 (your window width) is 4.5. Divide that by two, and you get 2.25 inches for your side borders. Do the same for the top and bottom.
Draw your lines all the way across the back of the board so they intersect at the corners. These intersections are your start and stop points for the blade. Don't worry about the lines being visible—again, this is the back!
Making the Actual Cut
Now for the part that makes everyone nervous: the cutting. Place your "slip sheet" (that scrap piece of board I mentioned earlier) under your mat. This provides a bit of resistance and keeps the blade from tearing the front of the good board.
Line up your metal ruler with the pencil line you drew. You want to be firm here—if the ruler shifts, the cut is ruined. Most handheld mat cutters have a little line or indicator on them that shows you exactly where the blade will start and stop.
Position the cutter against the ruler. Apply firm, downward pressure and push the blade into the board. Slide it steadily along the ruler until you hit the intersecting line at the other end. Consistency is key. Try to use one smooth motion rather than several short "sawing" strokes.
One little pro tip: Many people find it helpful to start the cut just a hair past the corner and end just a hair past the opposite corner. This ensures the corners "drop out" cleanly. If you don't go far enough, you'll end up with "hanging" corners that you have to hack at with a utility knife, which usually looks messy.
Dealing with the "Drop Out"
If you've done it right, when you finish the fourth cut, the center rectangle should just fall right out. If it's still hanging on by a thread, don't just rip it. Flip the board over and see if you can carefully finish the cut from the front with a fresh X-Acto blade, but usually, it's better to just go back over your lines on the back with the mat cutter.
Once the window is out, take a look at your edges. If there are any tiny "fuzzies" or rough spots, you can lightly sand them with a very fine-grit sandpaper or even the back of a spoon. Just be careful not to scuff the colored surface of the mat.
Mounting Your Art
Now that you've mastered how to cut matting for picture frame use, you need to actually put the art in there. Please, for the love of all things holy, don't tape the photo directly to the mat board on all four sides. Paper expands and contracts with humidity. If you tape it down tight, it will eventually ripple and warp.
The best method is the "hinge" mount. Tape the top edge of the photo to the back of the mat (or to a backing board) using acid-free artist tape. This lets the bottom of the photo hang freely and adjust to the air without buckling.
Troubleshooting Common Flubs
It happens to the best of us. Maybe your blade was dull and it chewed up the corner. Or maybe you measured from the wrong side of the ruler.
If your corners aren't perfectly clean, it's usually because you didn't apply enough pressure or your blade is getting dull. Mat blades are cheap—change them often. I usually swap mine out after every two or three mats. A dull blade is your worst enemy; it will drag through the paper fibers instead of slicing them, leaving a ragged edge that looks amateur.
If you find that your "overcuts" (those little lines that go past the corner) are too visible on the front, you've probably pushed the blade too far. It takes a little practice to feel where the blade actually is. Try a few practice runs on scrap pieces before you move on to the expensive linen-textured board you bought for the living room gallery wall.
Why Practice Makes Perfect
Don't get discouraged if your first attempt looks a little wonky. Learning how to cut matting for picture frame projects is a tactile skill. You have to learn the "feel" of the blade through the board and how much pressure your specific cutter needs.
Once you get it down, though, it's incredibly empowering. You can walk into a thrift store, find a gorgeous $5 frame that's a weird size, and know exactly how to make it look like a high-end gallery piece. You'll save a fortune over the years, and your walls will look a whole lot better for it. Just take your time, keep your blades sharp, and remember: measure twice, cut once!